A cosmetic or private home is a fairly simple process: re-glue, renew... It is much more difficult when large-scale work is started. And if it is conceived, especially in houses that were put into operation more than 20 years ago, you should think about completely replacing the wiring. After all, old cables that have served their time are unsafe to use, and in recent years there has been more and, therefore, increased load. Today we’ll talk about how electrical wiring is done in an apartment or private house, and about the possibility of doing it yourself.

All work related to the laying, wiring or switching of electrical cables and protective automation must be carried out in strict accordance with the rules of electrical installations (PUE) and carried out in compliance with safety standards. Before starting such work, you should prepare everything necessary and arrange it so that it is in direct access.

Important! When installing sockets and switches, you must observe the height of their placement from the floor and the switching rules specified in the PUE. It makes sense to carefully study this document in order to avoid subsequent alterations.

How wiring is done in an apartment: basic rules for carrying out work

In order for such a task to be completed efficiently, you should draw up an approximate wiring diagram in the apartment, indicating the location of electrical points, their power consumption, and their connection lines. It is during such work that the load is distributed evenly among groups, each of which will be protected by its own separate circuit breaker. Household electrical appliances such as and should be separated into separate lines. Such devices require additional installation of an RCD or residual current circuit breaker.

Methods for connecting wires in junction boxes

Switching electrical wiring in an apartment can be done in three main ways:

1. Conventional twisting is a fairly simple, but not always convenient method, the production of which can lead to heating of the connection if the traction is weak.
2. Soldered twisting is a rather labor-intensive and time-consuming method, but the contact is tight and protected from heat.
3. Application. Previously, screw clamps were used for these purposes, requiring additional time for installation. Today, WAGO contactors are becoming more and more common, which allow you to complete electrical work as quickly as possible.

Related article:

: advantages and disadvantages, requirements, varieties, subtleties of choice, review of manufacturers, installation technologies, how to connect copper and aluminum wires - read in our publication.

Types of cable distribution throughout the apartment and what the choice depends on

Electrical wiring in an apartment can be hidden or open (external). Each person decides which method to use, but it should be noted that hidden electrical wiring is more reliable. This is applicable in buildings made of, or. As for panel structures that do not involve gating of walls, open routing of wires is more often used in them. It is worth noting that in this case it is mandatory to use, which, in addition to its aesthetic function, also has a practical one: it prevents the wire from burning out in the event of an overload or short circuit.

Drawing up an electrical wiring diagram for an apartment

Having decided where and what equipment will be located, it is necessary to divide all the sockets into separate groups, which will be powered by separate lines. Eg:

1. Kitchen socket group.
2. Socket in the kitchen, connected through a separate RCD.
3. Living room and hallway.
4. Bedroom and bathroom.

But lines are indicated on a separate sheet. Here you can divide groups into each room, but this will lead to an increase in the number of machines in. You can make a separate kitchen/bedroom, bathroom/living room and hallway.

Helpful advice! The hallway should always be switched to a separate lighting group. When repairing the electrical wiring in the apartment, it will be possible to turn off the necessary room, while the light from the hallway will enter it, because this room is adjacent to the others.

Calculation of cable cross-sections during electrical wiring in an apartment

This is one of the most important tasks when installing new wiring in an apartment, the correct solution of which will ensure the security of the entire home network. However, it should be understood that at the same time it is necessary to resolve the issue of ratings of protective automation. Calculations are made as follows. Looking at the drawn diagram, we summarize the power consumption of all household appliances that will be powered from each specific line. Next, the resulting value must be divided by the network voltage of 220 V. The final indicator will be the current consumption, measured in Amperes. This data will be useful for choosing protective automation. Well, the appropriate wire cross-section is selected according to the table presented below.

Schematic diagrams of electrical wiring in an apartment: examples of ready-made solutions

If it is quite difficult for a home handyman to understand exactly how cable laying diagrams in an apartment are drawn up, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with ready-made solutions. Perhaps using their example it will be easier to understand this issue. Approximate wiring diagrams for an apartment:

Drawing up electrical wiring diagrams in private homes: nuances of the work

If a voltage of 220 V is supplied to a private house, then there will be no difference in the circuits with apartment ones. The only exceptions are. And then, only the wiring in the distribution input cabinet will be different. Otherwise, if it is not in the house and (or) requires a voltage of 380 V, everything will be the same.

Good to know! It should be understood that if you have an electric water heating boiler, regardless of the voltage required for it, it is necessary to provide a separate line with the installation of a residual current device or a residual current circuit breaker on it.

Number of incoming phases and their distribution

Provided that a four-core cable (380 V) comes from the pole to the distribution board, you should understand how to correctly divide it into groups. Almost every home craftsman who has encountered electrical installation knows that when using zero and one of the three phases of a cable with a voltage of 380 V, 220 V is obtained. The main task of this stage of work is the uniform distribution of phase wires along the lines so as to avoid distortion and ensure network performance is at the proper level. There is an old saying - don't put all your eggs in one basket. It applies here too. If the house is divided into lines, there is no need to switch them into one phase. It's better to distribute. The same applies to the lines of the power group.

Examples of diagrams for performing electrical installation work

Just like in an apartment, do-it-yourself wiring from the panel is not a very complicated process, which only requires knowledge of some rules and strict adherence to the instructions. We invite you to familiarize yourself with ready-made electrical wiring diagrams in a private home. Examples of electrical installation diagrams for private houses:

Programs that help you create a wiring diagram for your apartment

On the Internet you can find many programs that will help you design your home electrical network. Among them there are both free ones and those for which you will have to pay some money. Among the most famous programs that do not require financial investments are:

1. QElectroTech.
2. Visio.
3. NanoCAD.
4. Compass-Electric.
5. Eagle (Easily Applicable Graphical Layout Editor).

Similar programs can be listed for a long time. Free software is quite suitable for drawing up surface electrical wiring in a panel apartment or private house, but the limited functionality will not allow you to draw more complex communications. For such purposes, you should use paid programs. According to users, the best in this area is sPlan.

Installation of wiring in an apartment or private house: stages of work and step-by-step instructions

Any work, especially electrical installation, must be carried out in strict compliance with a certain algorithm. Everything must be done step by step, and not rush to perform any actions without completing the previous ones. Having made a diagram of the electrical wiring in the house with your own hands, we do the following step by step:

1. We calculate the cable cross-section.
2. We carry out marking and gating.
3. We lay the cable in channels and perform switching in distribution boxes.
4. We make connections in the distribution board.

Let's look at these actions in more detail.

What cables to use for wiring in an apartment or private house

Information on the choice of section has already been provided in our article, and therefore we will not consider the issue again. As for the number of cores, for single-phase systems without a two-core cable is used, and if without, then a three-core cable. For three-phase without a circuit - 4 cores, and with five-core products are used.

Marking walls according to the electrical wiring diagram in the apartment

Before wiring the apartment, you should correctly mark the cable routes and the location of power points. Having before your eyes, it will not be difficult to do this. To speed up and simplify the process, it is better to use a marker cord for marking routes. Although, if you have a laser level with a tripod at hand, you can use that.

Features of installing hidden and open wiring in the house with your own hands

Along the marked routes, it is necessary to secure it using cable ducts of the appropriate size for the wire or make grooves for laying the wires. At intersections (branches at) junction boxes are installed. Their size should be selected based on the number of connections that are planned to be made in them. When installing hidden wiring, it is necessary to use special crowns, with which a hole is drilled for socket boxes or round junction boxes. For square ones, a punch hammer is used.

Brief step-by-step instructions for installing wiring in an apartment

Let us analyze the information presented in general terms using photographic examples.

Illustration	Description of action
	Having completed the markings, we make grooves and recesses for installing distribution boxes and switches. All lines must be strictly vertical or horizontal.
	We install plastic boxes and socket boxes. Previously, it was allowed to install metal ones, but now the PUE prohibits this.
	We stretch the cables separately for each group. The work is carried out in stages with mandatory marking of the direction of the wire.
	When making connections in a distribution box, it makes sense to note where each wire goes. This will help in the future when making repairs.
	The laid cables will look like this. Now all that remains is to finish the walls and finish.
	The entrance panel in the apartment. It will have a similar appearance when the main power panel is located on the staircase.

Electrical wiring in an apartment: prices for specialist services

This work cannot be called cheap. On average across regions, such work in a three-room apartment will cost the owner at least 45,000-50,000 rubles. If we consider Moscow and the region, the cost can increase to 70,000-100,000 rubles. Is it worth paying such large sums when you can put your hands in and do all the electrical installation yourself?

Let's sum it up

Even a home handyman who does not have such experience can carry out electrical wiring in an apartment. The main thing here is compliance with the PUE standards and electrical safety rules. It should be understood that electricity is not something to joke about, and the slightest mistake made during the work can turn into a real problem over time. And, of course, you need enough free time - such a task cannot be completed quickly, especially if there is no experience at all.

connecting AV and RCD in the apartment

The distribution board itself is connected to the electricity meter. The supply of current to a one-room apartment is carried out from an electrical panel, which is located on the landing. An apartment AV and an apartment RCD are also installed in front of the meter. Their technical characteristics should depend on the total power of electrical appliances that will be used in the apartment.

However, there is one caveat. It may be that you have placed in a one-room apartment so many devices, the power of which can be 6-8 kilowatts. It is logical that apartment AVs and RCDs should be designed for at least 37 amperes (8000 watts / 220 volts = 36.36 amperes).

However, the installation of such AVs and RCDs is impractical. The reason for this is that most homes have old electrical wiring. This means that 20-30 years ago, 1.3-2 kilowatts were allocated per apartment, not 8. It is clear that if you turn on devices with higher power in the apartment, you will be turned off by the electrical panel, which is located in the entrance.

As professional electricians note, in most cases, the maximum load on home wiring with appliances from one apartment can be 4.3 kilowatts. House wiring can still withstand such power.

Accordingly, this figure is the main one when making all calculations and selecting an apartment circuit breaker, an RCD, as well as an input wire.

In cases where the power of the switched on devices is more than 4.3 kilowatts, you will have to turn off some of them yourself. Otherwise, the main circuit breaker will turn off the entire apartment.

As a result, the apartment AB should be designed for 25-32 amperes. The number of amperes depends on the area of ​​the one-room apartment. For small apartments, you can take a 25 amp AB. In this case, the current reserve should be taken into account, which should range from 1.3 to 1.5. The apartment RCD must be rated at 50A 30μA.

Table 1. Dependence of cable cross-section on the power of electrical appliances

As for the input cable that will connect the floor and apartment distribution boards, it should also be selected depending on the total power of electrical appliances. When you know this figure, then by looking at the table below, you can determine the cross-section of the input cable.

Helpful advice: this plate should also be used to determine the cross-section of all cables that will be used to create a separate branch of electrical wiring in a one-room apartment. Of course, for this you need to calculate the power of devices that will be powered from one circuit.

In most cases, the input cable for a one-room apartment should have a cross-section of 4 to 6 square meters. millimeters. Of course, it must be copper and three-core.

Laying wires in the living room

In Fig. 2 it is noted that the lighting of the corridor and living room is created using two different circuits. In practice, you can make sure that the corridor and living room are illuminated from the same circuit. A general chandelier or spotlights, as well as lamps in the corridor, are unlikely to have a power greater than two kilowatts.

Of course, to follow this advice, the junction box should be installed on the wall at the entrance to the living room. Further from the box, you can route the cables to the lamps in the hallway and in the living room.

In this case, the wires to the chandelier and the switch in the living room will need to be laid through a hole in the wall. The cross-section of the cable that will be used for the circuit for lamps can be 1.5 square meters. millimeter. The circuit breaker current rating for this circuit should be ten amps.

The contours for lamps in the bathroom and kitchen should be the same. In principle, one circuit can be laid for the lamps of these two rooms.
In Fig. 2 you can see that there are branches to which the sockets are connected to the living room, kitchen and bathroom.

Each such branch must be equipped with a 25 ampere circuit breaker and a 30 A 30 µA RCD. Our scheme involves installing two double sockets in the living room.

Helpful tip: you can determine the location of the sockets yourself. However, they must be located behind electrical appliances. Therefore, before designing the placement of sockets, it is worth designing the location of electrical appliances, as well as furniture. The sockets themselves should be located at a height of 30 centimeters from the floor and 15 centimeters from the corner of the wall.

The number of sockets directly depends on the number of electrical appliances. At the same time, there is also a rule that states that there should be one outlet for every six square meters. In the case of a bath and kitchen, there should be two sockets in this area.

The branch of the socket group must be created using a copper cable, the cross-section of which is not less than 2.5 square meters. millimeters. Of course, the cross section can also be determined using the table. 1. In this case, you need to know the maximum power of electrical devices.

The wiring diagram presented above for a one-room apartment (Fig. 2) does not take into account the use of an air conditioner in the living room. The air conditioner needs a separate circuit. To create it you need to use:

• cable with a cross section of 2.5 sq. millimeter;
• AB 16 ampere;
• RCD rated at 20A 30μA.

The socket of this branch should be located near the air conditioner.

To summarize, we can say that three circuits must be laid in the living space of a one-room apartment.

Wiring in the kitchen

In the kitchen there are usually several separate circuits. One for lighting, one for sockets (this circuit is carried out with a 2x2.5mm cable) and one for each of the devices:

• electric hob;
• electric stove;
• instantaneous water heater;

Each of these circuits is connected separately with a 4 mm cable to a 16A circuit breaker.

A group of three or four sockets of this circuit must be mounted behind the lower cabinet, which is located under the countertop. All kitchen appliances will still be connected to these outlets. At the same time, the remaining sockets must be placed in other places, or rather, where the refrigerator and other large devices will be located.

If you use an electric stove in a one-room apartment, you should install another wiring branch. Its features depend on the specific characteristics of the slab itself.

We mentioned the kitchen lighting circuit above.

Wiring in the bathroom

It remains to consider the wiring diagram in the bathroom of a one-room apartment. This room is special and the most dangerous. Therefore, the wiring here is laid in compliance with strict requirements. Two circuits can be output to this room: for a lamp and for electrical appliances.

As for the branch for the lamp, it is the same as in other rooms. The exception is the location of the switch. It should be placed outside the bathroom.

The switch should be outside the bathroom

An outlet circuit can only be installed if it has an RCD or distribution transformer. Of course, each outlet must have a housing that is protected from moisture. Although the picture shows only one outlet, three are usually required. The requirements for the cable and parameters of the RCD, AV are the same as for the components of the circuit of the socket group in the kitchen.

Where should I mount each branch?

It is worth noting that the wiring diagram of a one-room apartment determines not only the number and location of sockets, lamps, switches, but also determines the cable routes. There are some nuances here. They depend on what kind of house the one-room apartment is located in, and what kind of decoration each room will have.

If the owners install a suspended ceiling and finish the walls with plasterboard, then the routes can be arbitrary. The main thing is that the cables are placed only horizontally and vertically, and do not cross. In this case, the electrical wires will be hidden behind the drywall.

If the house is panel, then the electrical wiring will have to be installed either in the floor, or in special channels, or in the space that is located at the junction of the ceiling and wall. As you know, in the horizontal direction.

Therefore, horizontal wiring will be placed in the places mentioned above. Vertical can be carried out in grooves (such grooves can be made).

In a brick house, you can lay the cable in the shortest possible way, since the wiring can be hidden either under the plaster or in grooves. Depending on these features, the routes of each branch are designated. Next, take a meter and measure the required number of electrical wires.

Wiring Tools

So, we know how to select each element of electrical wiring, as well as how and where to place them. Now let's look at what tools you need to have to install these elements.

Tools must be presented:

1. A hammer drill with a set of drills and chisels for concrete and brick (depending on the house).
2. Drill.
3. A grinder or wall cutters with a diamond disc (for creating grooves in a brick house).
4. Multimeter tester.
5. Phase indicator indicator.
6. A set of screwdrivers and wrenches.
7. With pliers.
8. Side cutters.
9. With a mounting knife.
10. Construction level.
11. With a spatula.

Do-it-yourself electrical wiring in an apartment is not an easy task, but with some knowledge and skills it becomes much easier. Usually you have to call an electrician to change the old wiring in the house or make a new one in an apartment with a rough finish. This work will cost the homeowner quite a lot. Having mastered the basic rules for installing electrical wiring, you can significantly save on electrician services. If you do not risk getting involved with electricity, recommendations for laying wiring will help you control the work of the technician, notice shortcomings in time and avoid shortcomings.

Necessary materials and tools for work

High-quality electrical wiring must meet the requirements of SNiP and safety standards. To carry out such wiring, you will need consumables and tools:

1. electric meter;
2. residual current device (RCD) for conducting currents under normal operating conditions or when leakage currents occur;
3. power, low-current, lighting cable;
4. branch boxes;
5. terminal blocks (preferably screwless);
6. sockets and switches;

1. socket boxes;
2. open type electrical wiring box;
3. a mixture of alabaster for installing the cable inside the groove;
4. glue;
5. screws and self-tapping screws;
6. baseboards;
7. electrical insulating cardboard;
8. tin strips for fastening.

Tools you will need: wall chaser, chisel, hammer, scissors for cutting cables. To lay the cable inside walls or boxes, you will need a spatula and an emery float. You will also need pliers, a screwdriver, a measuring tape and a knife.

Replacing wiring in an apartment: when to change it

An indicator that the wiring in the house needs to be changed is:

New wiring: permit, contract, necessary documents

New wiring in an apartment with your own hands should begin with a project. This is a plan of each room in the apartment with marks of the places where the electrical wiring will be located.

The lighting plan and outlet layout are two separate electrical wiring lines, so they need to be done separately from each other.

The power supply project is drawn up by a specialist or organization with the right to carry out such work. The designer draws up a plan in accordance with the requirements of the PUE, so there will be no problems when putting electrical wiring into operation. At the same time, he takes into account the customer’s wishes regarding the placement of sockets and switches, taking into account the number of connected household appliances.
Before installing new electrical wiring, you must address the issue of obtaining technical specifications and allocating the required power. This is especially important before building a new home.

To obtain electrification, you need to go through several stages:

1. Contact the HOA or management company to obtain a certificate for the allocated power and a certificate showing the apartment’s power supply diagram.
2. Contact a company that will draw up a project for the electrical supply of the apartment and conclude an agreement.
3. Coordination of the project with the maintenance service of the house, then with Energonadzor.
4. Installation of electrical wiring.
5. Invitation of a licensed electrical laboratory to conduct tests of the electrical network. Based on the test results, it issues a Technical Report with protocols for testing and measuring equipment.
6. Drawing up an application to Energonadzor with attached documents with the results of network testing for acceptance of new wiring. Coordination of the quality of installation and the correctness of its implementation by the Energonadzor inspector. If the work is completed without any violations, he issues a Certificate of Permission to Operate the Electrical Installation.

Having received the certificate of approval, you need to contact the house maintenance service to connect to the electrical network according to a permanent scheme.

Safety precautions

To avoid various injuries and electric shock when installing wiring, follow the following safety precautions:

• Carry out work with the voltage removed. You need to check the lack of voltage with an indicator screwdriver or an electrical tester.
• Electrical tools and lighting carriers must be connected to working extension cords.
• The electric tool must be in full working order, and the wires must be free of any defects or damage.
• To work at height, you need to use only stable support, for example, construction platforms, and not tables and stools.
• You need to work in overalls, safety shoes and a hat.
• When working with electric tools, you must wear face, eye and hand protection.
• It is not recommended to work alone, but only with a partner. You should always have a first aid kit at your workplace to provide first aid.
• In case of electric shock, your partner needs immediate assistance: immediately remove the voltage and call an ambulance.

A fire extinguisher must be available at the work site.

Types of wiring installation

Do-it-yourself wiring in an apartment can be installed in two ways: open and hidden. The first method involves installing electrical wiring in pipes or baseboards. The height of the gasket can be any; there are no strict standards in this regard. Skirting boards must be made of non-combustible material. During installation, it is not allowed to lay wires for sockets and lighting together.
The second method is carried out hidden, inside walls and partitions, ceilings.

Electrical cables must be well insulated from moisture and fire and durable. To install cables, you need to purchase durable, high-quality pipes or corrugation.

Hidden installation of new wiring

Laying the cable in a hidden way has its advantages:

1. Neat appearance (wiring is invisible in the interior).
2. Increased fire safety of housing (provided that the walls are concrete).
3. The wiring is protected from external mechanical influences and ultraviolet radiation, so the service life of the electrical network is increased.

According to the electrical wiring layout design, holes are made in the walls for the cable. They house socket boxes and a distribution box for wires. To fix them in the holes, use a plaster solution. After this, place the electrical cable along the grooves. First, the cable must be cut into pieces of the required length with a margin for connecting the cores.

What are the disadvantages of the hidden method of installing electrical wiring?

The disadvantage of installation using a hidden method is that during installation and repair work it is necessary to destroy the wall. This process is more labor intensive than the open installation method. The main thing when working with hidden electrical wiring cables is to observe the color coding of the wires.

Then place it inside the walls and ceiling, “grabbing” it with gypsum mortar (several points at a certain interval).

When installing the cable inside plasterboard walls, you should lay it in plastic pipes or corrugation. After checking all hidden wiring connections for functionality, you can begin to putty the walls.

Installation of wiring in cable channels

The cable channel is an electrical box, which consists of a U-shaped profile and a quick-release cover.

Sockets and switches should be located at a convenient height.

Wiring is laid openly on leveled walls. There are several ways to attach cable channels:

• liquid nails (for plastic products);
• self-tapping screws in increments of 50 cm (for wooden walls);
• dowel-nails (for fastening on concrete and brick walls);
• adhesive tape (for attaching temporary power supplies).

The boxes must be cut carefully using a sharp hacksaw for metal. It is important to leave the lid closed to avoid defects. If you cut with metal scissors, chips will form in the cutting areas.

If two types of cable are laid simultaneously, the internal cavity of the boxes must be divided into separate sections to prevent their intersection. At the same time, the cable inside the channel should be positioned freely, and the lid should close without difficulty.

To draw up an installation diagram, you will need an apartment plan, on which you will need to mark the installation locations of sockets, switches, and lighting fixtures. The starting point of the diagram is the location of the distribution panel.

• To create less likelihood of damage, the electrical wiring route must be laid strictly vertically and horizontally along the walls.
• The route turns only at right angles.
• To reduce the risk of accidental damage to the cable during repairs, it is better to lay it above the floor (in baseboards) or at a distance of 20 cm from the ceiling.
• According to the diagram, switches should be located near the entrance to the room at a height of 80-150 cm.
• For 6 sq.m. The area needs at least one socket, in the bathroom there are two, in the kitchen there should be even more.
• Each room should have a distribution box.
• When drawing up a diagram, it is recommended to plan the location of household appliances and furniture.

The wiring diagram must include a 30 mA RCD to protect against electric shock. The 10 mA bathroom RCD is installed separately.

Wall chipping

First you need to cut a hole for the electrical panel. Use a grinder to make cuts along the edges of the future niche, and several horizontal and vertical cuts in the middle. After this, you need to hollow out the middle with a hammer drill, adjusting the dimensions of the niche with a chisel.

Holes for sockets, switches and distribution boxes must be drilled with a hammer drill or impact drill with a bit attachment. The diameter of the crown should be slightly larger than the mounting boxes.

The grooves are cut along previously marked lines (in accordance with the installation diagram). For this purpose, a wall chaser is used. The grooves must be strictly vertical and horizontal. Where greater depth is required, use an angle grinder together with a wall chaser. A vacuum cleaner will help get rid of excessive dust from the air during operation.

After these steps, use a hammer drill and a chisel to knock out the core of the groove and level their bottom. You need to control the size of the grooves by periodically trying on a piece of cable or corrugation.

To pass the cable between rooms, punch technological holes in the walls and ceilings.

When the gating is completed, all holes and niches must be cleaned of dust and treated with a deep penetration primer.

Connecting electricity meters

In the passports of electric meters, the manufacturer indicates connection diagrams. Any type of electric meter contains a terminal block to which electricity is supplied and removed, as well as an internal circuit. When connecting cables to the terminal block, you need to switch the phase and neutral conductors to their places, observing the polarity.

The lower contacts of the circuit breaker are outgoing. Just like on the top ones, you need to connect the phase to the left contact, and zero to the right. To connect the electric meter, it is better to use wires of the same cross-section as the supply wires.

How to connect wiring to sockets, choosing the height for sockets

The choice of the optimal method of connecting the outlet to the electrical wiring depends on the expected load on it:

1. Connection from another outlet. In this case, the planned connection should not exceed the permissible load characteristic of the first outlet.
2. Connection from the distribution box. The section of wiring feeding this box must have sufficient load capacity to accommodate the installation of a new outlet.
3. Connection from the main distribution panel. Suitable for connecting electrical appliances with heavy loads.

In the first two cases, a cable with a cross-section of 2.5 sq. mm is selected, and in the last - based on the load of a particular electrical appliance. Often a section of 2.5 sq. mm is not enough.

There is no standard defining the height of sockets. Therefore, the choice of the height of their location depends only on the comfortable use of electrical appliances.

For example, in the bedroom, the height of the sockets is often chosen based on aesthetic considerations, so that the wires are not visible. Therefore, they are mounted at a distance of 30-40 cm from the floor.

For electrical appliances that are often in standby mode, sockets are mounted at floor level - in baseboards. In the kitchen, for connecting auxiliary appliances, choose a height of 30 cm above the countertop, for main household appliances - 20 cm above the floor.

How to connect wiring to a chandelier

The simplest method of connecting a chandelier is when there are only two wires in the ceiling and the lamp itself. Connect them in pairs in any order. If the luminaire has only one lamp, the supply neutral wire is connected to a similar wire inside the junction box. The phase wire from the distribution box is connected to the switch, and from it to the phase wire of the chandelier. The wires must be connected using screw terminals.

If there are several lamps in the lamp, all the neutral wires in it are connected together and connected to the phase wire from the switch.

For a chandelier with a two-key switch, the connection is similar to a single-key switch. Only the wires from the chandelier are divided into two groups, then one bundle from each group of lamps is connected to the neutral wire.

Features of wiring in different rooms

Electrical wiring may have its own characteristics for different rooms:

Testing and commissioning

Before you begin finishing the premises after installing the wiring, you need to check its functionality.

To detect hidden wiring, you will need a “dialing” device - a multimeter. The group machine must be turned off.

Use a megohmmeter or check visually for damage to the wire insulation. After this check for short circuit, connect all the wires, i.e. All switches must be closed. After this, short-circuit three wires - phase, neutral, ground on one of the sockets. The third step is to test all terminals of sockets and lamps, which should show a short circuit (resistance 1-2 Ohms). The last stage is testing the wiring under the maximum possible load.

If the tests were successful, you can begin to commission the electrical wiring, documenting it with the relevant authorities.

Self-installation cost

Let's calculate the approximate cost of expenses for independent installation of electrical wiring:

Expenses	1-room apartment	2-room apartment	3-room apartment
Wires for lighting (5-6 m for each lighting fixture)	500 rub	600-800 rub.	1000 rub.
Wire for sockets (3-wire cross-section 2.5 mm, 10 meters) together with the main wire (10 m, cross-section - 6 mm)	The norm is 4 sockets in the room. Therefore, the average consumption for 1 room, kitchen and bathroom will be 100 m3, which is 5000-6000 rubles.	The average requirement is 180 meters, this will amount to 7000-8000 rubles.	You will need approximately 220 m2 (kitchen + living room + 2 rooms + bathroom), this will cost 9,000-10,000 rubles.
Automatic machines, shields, distribution box	1500-1700 rub.	2000 rub.	3200 rub.
Sockets, switches	400-500 rub.	600 rub.	1000 rub.
TOTAL	7500-8700 rub.	10200-11400 rub.	14200-15200 rub.

In addition to these materials, do not forget to take into account the cost of fasteners, terminals, gypsum plaster, socket boxes and some other consumables. But at the same time, installing electrical wiring yourself will be more profitable than ordering it. The average price for electrician services for cable laying is 60,000-70,000 rubles.

Videos about wiring in an apartment

Do-it-yourself installation of electrical wiring in an apartment:

Technology for electrical wiring before plastering:

Do-it-yourself electrical wiring installation may seem like an overwhelming task for an inexperienced technician. In this case, it is better not to take risks, but to turn to professional electricians. But if the minimum skills are present, guided by practical advice, you can carry out independent electrification of your home, saving significantly on this.

Just 15 - 20 years ago, the load on the electrical network was relatively small, but today the presence of a large number of household appliances has provoked an increase in loads significantly. Old wires are not always able to withstand heavy loads and over time there is a need to replace them. Laying electrical wiring in a house or apartment is a task that requires certain knowledge and skills from the master. First of all, this concerns knowledge of electrical wiring rules, the ability to read and create wiring diagrams, as well as electrical installation skills. Of course, you can do the wiring yourself, but to do this you must adhere to the rules and recommendations outlined below.

Electrical wiring rules

All construction activities and building materials are strictly regulated by a set of rules and requirements - SNiP and GOST. As for the installation of electrical wiring and everything related to electricity, you should pay attention to the Electrical Installation Rules (abbreviated PUE). This document describes what and how to do when working with electrical equipment. And if we want to lay electrical wiring, then we will need to study it, especially the part that relates to installation and selection of electrical equipment. Below are the basic rules that should be followed when installing electrical wiring in a house or apartment:

• key electrical wiring elements such as distribution boxes, meters, sockets and switches must be easily accessible;
• Switches are installed at a height of 60 - 150 cm from the floor. The switches themselves are located in places where an open door does not prevent access to them. This means that if the door opens to the right, the switch is on the left side and vice versa. The wire to the switches is laid from top to bottom;
• It is recommended to install sockets at a height of 50 - 80 cm from the floor. This approach is dictated by flood safety. Also, sockets are installed at a distance of more than 50 cm from gas and electric stoves, as well as heating radiators, pipes and other grounded objects. The wire to the sockets is laid from bottom to top;
• the number of sockets in the room must correspond to 1 pc. for 6 m2. The kitchen is an exception. It is equipped with as many sockets as necessary to connect household appliances. Installation of sockets in the toilet is prohibited. For sockets in the bathroom, a separate transformer is installed outside;
• wiring inside or outside the walls is carried out only vertically or horizontally, and the installation location is displayed on the wiring plan;
• wires are laid at a certain distance from pipes, ceilings, etc. For horizontal ones, a distance of 5 - 10 cm from the floor beams and cornices and 15 cm from the ceiling is required. The height from the floor is 15 - 20 cm. Vertical wires are placed at a distance of more than 10 cm from the edge of the door or window opening. The distance from gas pipes must be at least 40 cm;
• when laying external or hidden wiring, it is necessary to ensure that it does not come into contact with metal parts of building structures;
• when laying several parallel wires, the distance between them must be at least 3 mm or each wire must be hidden in a protective box or corrugation;
• The wiring and connection of wires is carried out inside special distribution boxes. The connection points are carefully isolated. Connecting copper and aluminum wires to each other is strictly prohibited;
• grounding and neutral wires are secured to the devices with a bolted connection.

Electrical wiring design and diagram

Electrical wiring work begins with the creation of a project and wiring diagram. This document is the basis for future wiring of the house. Creating a project and diagram is quite a serious matter and it is better to entrust it to experienced specialists. The reason is simple - the safety of those living in a house or apartment depends on it. Project creation services will cost a certain amount, but it's worth it.

Those who are accustomed to doing everything with their own hands will have to, adhering to the rules described above, and also having studied the basics of electrical engineering, independently make a drawing and calculate the load on the network. There are no particular difficulties in this, especially if there is at least some understanding of what electric current is and what the consequences of careless handling are. The first thing you need is some symbols. They are shown in the photo below:

Using them, we make a drawing of the apartment and mark lighting points, installation locations for switches and sockets. How many and where they are installed is described above in the rules. The main task of such a diagram is to indicate the location of installation of devices and routing of wires. When creating an electrical wiring diagram, it is important to think in advance where, how much and what kind of household appliances will be installed.

The next step in creating the diagram will be to route the wires to the connection points on the diagram. It is necessary to dwell on this point in more detail. The reason is the type of wiring and connection. There are several such types - parallel, sequential and mixed. The latter is the most attractive due to the economical use of materials and maximum efficiency. To facilitate wiring, all connection points are divided into several groups:

• lighting of the kitchen, corridor and living rooms;
• toilet and bathroom lighting;
• power supply for sockets in living rooms and corridors;
• power supply for kitchen outlets;
• power supply socket for electric stove.

The above example is just one of many options for lighting groups. The main thing to understand is that if you group the connection points, the amount of materials used is reduced and the circuit itself is simplified.

Important! To simplify wiring to sockets, the wires can be laid under the floor. Wires for overhead lighting are laid inside the floor slabs. These two methods are good to use if you don’t want to scratch the walls. In the diagram, such wiring is marked with a dotted line.

The electrical wiring project also indicates the calculation of the expected current in the network and the materials used. The calculation is performed using the formula:

I=P/U;

where P is the total power of all devices used (Watt), U is the network voltage (Volts).

For example, a 2 kW kettle, 10 60 W light bulbs, a 1 kW microwave, a 400 W refrigerator. Current strength is 220 Volts. As a result (2000+(10x60)+1000+400)/220=16.5 Amperes.

In practice, the current strength in the network for modern apartments rarely exceeds 25 A. Based on this, all materials are selected. First of all, this concerns the cross-section of electrical wiring. To make your choice easier, the table below shows the main parameters of the wire and cable:

The table shows extremely accurate values, and since the current strength can fluctuate quite often, a small margin will be required for the wire or cable itself. Therefore, it is recommended that all wiring in an apartment or house be made from the following materials:

• wire VVG-5*6 (five cores and cross-section 6 mm2) is used in houses with three-phase power supply to connect the lighting panel to the main panel;
• wire VVG-2*6 (two cores and cross-section 6 mm2) is used in houses with two-phase power supply to connect the lighting panel to the main panel;
• wire VVG-3*2.5 (three cores and cross-section 2.5 mm2) is used for most of the wiring from the lighting panel to the distribution boxes and from them to the sockets;
• wire VVG-3*1.5 (three cores and cross-section 1.5 mm2) is used for wiring from distribution boxes to lighting points and switches;
• wire VVG-3*4 (three cores and cross-section 4 mm2) is used for electric stoves.

To find out the exact length of the wire, you will have to run around the house a little with a tape measure, and add another 3 - 4 meters of reserve to the result obtained. All wires are connected to the lighting panel, which is installed at the entrance. Circuit breakers are installed in the panel. Typically these are 16 A and 20 A RCDs. The former are used for lighting and switches, the latter for sockets. For an electric stove, a separate 32 A RCD is installed, but if the power of the stove exceeds 7 kW, then a 63 A RCD is installed.

Now you need to calculate how many sockets and distribution boxes you need. Everything is quite simple here. Just look at the diagram and make a simple calculation. In addition to the materials described above, you will need various consumables, such as electrical tape and PPE caps for connecting wires, as well as pipes, cable ducts or boxes for electrical wiring, and socket boxes.

Electrical wiring installation

There is nothing overly complicated about electrical wiring installation work. The main thing during installation is to adhere to safety regulations and follow the instructions. All work can be done alone. Tools for installation will require a tester, a hammer drill or grinder, a drill or screwdriver, wire cutters, pliers, and a Phillips and slotted screwdriver. A laser level will not be superfluous. Since without it it is quite difficult to make vertical and horizontal markings.

Important! When carrying out repairs and replacing wiring in an old house or apartment with hidden wiring, you must first find and, if necessary, remove the old wires. For these purposes, an electrical wiring sensor is used.

Marking and preparing channels for electrical wiring

We begin installation with markings. To do this, use a marker or pencil to place a mark on the wall where the wire will be laid. At the same time, we follow the rules for placing wires. The next step will be to mark the locations for the installation of lighting fixtures, sockets and switches, and the lighting panel.

Important! In new houses, a special niche is provided for the lighting panel. In the old ones, such a shield is simply hung on the wall.

Having finished with the markings, we proceed either to install the wiring in an open way, or to groove the walls for hidden wiring. First, using a hammer drill and a special bit, holes are cut for installing sockets, switches and distribution boxes. For the wires themselves, grooves are made using a grinder or a hammer drill. In any case, there will be a lot of dust and dirt. The depth of the groove of the groove should be about 20 mm, and the width should be such that all the wires fit into the groove without obstruction.

As for the ceiling, there are several options for solving the issue of placing and securing the wiring. The first is that if the ceiling is suspended or suspended, then all the wiring is simply fixed to the ceiling. The second is to make a shallow groove for wiring. Third, the wiring is hidden in the ceiling. The first two options are extremely simple to implement. But for the third one you will have to make some explanations. In panel houses, floors with internal voids are used; it is enough to make two holes and stretch the wires inside the floor.

Having finished with the gating, we move on to the last stage of preparation for wiring installation. Wires must be pulled through the walls to bring them into the room. Therefore, you will have to use a hammer drill to punch holes. Usually such holes are made in the corner of the room. We also make a hole for running the wire from the distribution panel to the lighting panel. Having finished gating the walls, we begin installation.

Installation of open electrical wiring

We begin the installation by installing the lighting panel. If a special niche was created for it, then we place it there; if not, then we simply hang it on the wall. We install an RCD inside the shield. Their number depends on the number of lighting groups. The assembled and ready-to-connect panel looks like this: there are neutral terminals at the top, grounding terminals at the bottom, and automatic circuit breakers are installed between the terminals.

Now we insert wire VVG-5*6 or VVG-2*6 inside. On the switchboard side, the electrical wiring is connected by an electrician, so for now we will leave it unconnected. Inside the lighting panel, the input wire is connected as follows: we connect the blue wire to zero, the white wire to the top contact of the RCD, and the yellow wire with a green stripe to ground. We connect the RCD circuit breakers to each other in series at the top using a jumper from the white wire. Now we move on to open wiring.

Along the previously outlined lines we fix boxes or cable channels for electrical wiring. Often, with open wiring, they try to place the cable channels themselves near the baseboard or vice versa, almost under the ceiling. We secure the wiring box using self-tapping screws in increments of 50 cm. We make the first and last hole in the box at a distance of 5 - 10 cm from the edge. To do this, we drill holes in the wall using a hammer drill, drive a dowel inside and secure the cable channel with self-tapping screws.

Another distinctive feature of open wiring are sockets, switches and distribution boxes. All of them are hung on the wall, instead of being built inside. Therefore, the next step is to install them in place. All you have to do is place them on the wall, mark the mounting locations, drill the holes and secure them in place.

Next we proceed to wiring the wires. We start by laying the main line and from the sockets to the lighting panel. As already noted, we use wire VVG-3*2.5 for this. For convenience, we start from the connection point towards the panel. At the end of the wire we hang a label indicating what kind of wire it is and where it comes from. Next, we lay the VVG-3*1.5 wires from switches and lighting fixtures to the distribution boxes.

Inside the distribution boxes, we connect the wires using PPE or carefully insulate them. Inside the lighting panel, the main wire VVG-3*2.5 is connected as follows: brown or red wire - phase, connected to the bottom of the RCD, blue - zero, connected to the zero bus at the top, yellow with a green stripe - grounding to the bus at the bottom. Using a tester, we “ring” all the wires to eliminate possible errors. If everything is in order, we call an electrician and connect to the distribution panel.

Installation of hidden electrical wiring

Concealed electrical wiring is quite simple. The only significant difference from the open one is the way the wires are hidden from view. Otherwise the actions are almost the same. First, we install the lighting panel and RCD circuit breakers, after which we start and connect the input cable from the side of the distribution panel. We also leave it unconnected. An electrician will do this. Next, we install distribution boxes and socket boxes inside the made niches.

Now let's move on to wiring. First we lay the main line from VVG-3*2.5 wire. If it was planned, then we lay the wires to the sockets in the floor. To do this, we insert the VVG-3*2.5 wire into a pipe for electrical wiring or a special corrugation and lay it to the point where the wire exits to the sockets. There we place the wire inside the groove and insert it into the socket box. The next step will be to lay the VVG-3*1.5 wire from the switches and lighting points to the junction boxes, where they are connected to the main wire. We isolate all connections with PPE or electrical tape.

At the end, we “call” the entire network using a tester for possible errors and connect it to the lighting panel. The connection method is similar to that described for open wiring. Upon completion, we seal the grooves with gypsum putty and invite an electrician to connect it to the distribution panel.

Installing electrical wiring in a house or apartment is quite easy for an experienced technician. But for those who are not well versed in electrical engineering, they should take the help of experienced professionals from start to finish. This, of course, will cost money, but this way you can protect yourself from mistakes that could lead to a fire.

Electricity is a serious and responsible matter. If you are going to do all the work yourself, you need to do everything very carefully and diligently. Proper wiring in a private home is a guarantee of safety, because according to statistics, 70% of fires occur due to electrical faults. If you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to entrust the work to proven specialists.

Action plan

Electrical wiring in a private house is done before finishing work begins. The frame of the house is out, the walls and roof are ready - it's time to start work. The sequence of actions is as follows:

• Determination of the input type - single-phase (220 V) or three-phase (380 V).
• Development of a scheme, calculation of the capacity of the planned equipment, submission of documents and receipt of the project. Here it must be said that the technical specifications will not always determine your declared power; most likely they will allocate no more than 5 kW.
• Selection of components and components, purchase of meters, machines, cables, etc.
• . Performed by a specialized organization, you need to decide on the type - overhead or underground, install an input machine and a counter in the right place.
• Install electricity into the house.
• Laying cables inside the house, connecting sockets and switches.
• Ground loop design and its connection.
• Testing the system and obtaining a certificate.
• Electrical connection and operation.

This is only a general plan; each case has its own nuances and features, but you need to start by obtaining the technical conditions for connecting to the electrical network and the project. To do this, you need to decide on the type of input and the planned power consumption. It must be remembered that the preparation of documents can take six months, so it is better to submit them even before the start of construction: two years are given to fulfill the technical conditions. During this time, you will probably be able to build a wall on which you can put a machine and a counter.

How many phases

A private house can be supplied with single-phase voltage (220 V) or three-phase (380 V). According to energy consumption standards for a private house, the maximum consumption per house for a single-phase network can be 10-15 kW, for a three-phase network - 15 kW.

So what's the difference? The fact is that powerful electrical appliances can be directly connected to a three-phase network - electric stoves or heating boilers, ovens and similar equipment. However, the input requirements and wiring of the 380V network are much stricter: higher voltage, greater chance of serious injury. Therefore, if your house is no more than 100 square meters, and you do not think of heating it with electricity, you are better off using 220 V.

Making a plan and receiving a project

Having decided on the type of input, you can begin to develop a plan for electrifying your home. Take a scale plan of the house, and draw where the equipment will be located, figure out where to place the sockets and switches. In this case, you need to take into account where any large-sized furniture will be located, and where it can be rearranged, so that sockets and switches are not placed in these areas.

All lighting fixtures will need to be drawn on the plan: chandeliers, sconces, floor lamps, lamps. Some of them will need switches, some will need sockets. Then you will need to figure out which devices in each room will need to be turned on. For example, in the kitchen there is a lot of equipment that works constantly. It definitely needs sockets. There is also equipment that turns on periodically. All this is plotted on the plan, and the optimal location of the switching points is determined. The same approach applies to each of the rooms.

Determination of total power

Having decided approximately what equipment will be installed in your home, add up its power. The average power can be taken from the table: there is probably no technology yet. Moreover, where there are, take into account starting loads (they are much higher). Add about 20% of the reserve to the found amount. The result will be the required power. You indicate it in papers submitted to obtain permission to connect electricity to the site. If you are given the stated power, you will be very lucky, but you should not hope for it. Most likely, you will have to invest in the standard 5 kW - the most common electricity limit for a private home.

Breakdown of consumers into groups

All these consumers (this is the term of professionals) - lamps, spotlights, switches, sockets - are divided into groups. A separate branch runs electrics to lighting fixtures. Usually one is enough, but this is not a rule; it may be more convenient or expedient to make two branches - for each wing of the house or for each floor - depending on the type and configuration of the building. The lighting of the basement, utility rooms, as well as the light on the street stands out in a separate group.

Then the sockets are divided into groups. How many you can “put” on one wire depends on the diameter of the wire used, but not very much - three to five, no more. It is better to allocate a separate power supply line for connecting each powerful device: this is more reliable from the point of view of fire safety, and will contribute to a longer operation of the devices.

As a result, you may have three to seven lines going to the kitchen - this is where the equipment is most abundant and powerful too: for an electric boiler and electric stove, separate lines are absolutely needed. It is better to “plant” the refrigerator, microwave, electric oven, and washing machine separately. Not so powerful blender, food processor, etc. can be included in one line.

There are usually two to four lines going into the rooms: in a modern home and in any room there is something to plug into the electrical network. One line will go to lighting. On the second there will be sockets into which you will need to plug in your computer, router, TV, and phone charger. All of them are not very powerful and can be combined into one group. If you intend to install an air conditioner or turn on an electric heater, you will need separate lines.

If a private house is small - a dacha, for example, then there may be two or three groups: one for all lighting fixtures, the second for the street and the third for all internal sockets. In general, the number of groups is an individual matter and depends most of all on the size of the house and the amount of electrical equipment in it.

Based on the number of groups received, the number of machines on the distribution panel in the house is determined: to the received number of groups, add two to four for development (suddenly you forgot something important, or you need to turn on something new powerful, divide a group that is too large or far apart into two, etc.). The number of machines in it is also selected based on the number of groups: there is a separate machine for each group. If a private house is large - on several floors, it makes sense to install more powerful machines on each floor, and connect group machines to them.

Where to put the shield

The installation location of the electrical panel is not regulated by regulations. There are only restrictions regarding the distance from the pipelines; it must be at a distance of at least 1 meter. Any pipes are taken into account: water supply, heating, sewerage, internal drains, gas pipelines and even gas meters.

There are no restrictions on premises. Many people place the panel in: since it’s a technical room, it makes sense to collect all communications here. The receiving authorities do not make any claims. Sometimes it is more convenient to place the shield near the front door. If the protection class meets the requirements, there should be no claims.

Selection of cables and components

Today's standard wiring diagram for a private house includes two circuit breakers. One - input - is installed before the meter, usually on the street. It and the meter are sealed upon commissioning. The second RCD machine is placed in the house in front of the panel. The operation (shutdown) current of these devices is selected so that the circuit breaker installed in the house is turned off first (its current value is slightly less). Then, in the event of an emergency, you will not need to crawl under the roof.

If the estimated load is less than 15 kW, the circuit is standard - RCD + automatic circuit breaker, meter and then division into groups. For higher power consumption, it will be necessary to install a transformer; its parameters and the parameters of all equipment will be indicated in the project.

Recently, when connecting a private house to the power grid, they are required to install a meter and a machine on the street. This requirement is not supported by law; it is simply easier for the electricity service to control consumption. If you want, you can fight, if not, choose a meter and machine in a case with increased dust and moisture protection - a protection class of at least IP-55. For installation inside a building, the protection must be less - IP-44, and accordingly the price will be lower.

Cable selection

For electrical wiring in a private home, it is better to use cables rather than wires. Their insulation is at least twice as good, therefore the laying requirements are not so stringent, and they are safer to use. All internal wiring in a private house must be done with. Previously, there were no such requirements, but now many electrical appliances have three-pin plugs and require grounding for safe operation. Therefore, the cable must be three-core.

In electrical cables, the cores are made of copper or aluminum. Although aluminum is cheaper, it is used less often: it is rigid, more likely to break, and more difficult to work with. If you install electrical wiring in a private home yourself and lack experience, this can become a problem. In addition, it cannot be used inside wooden houses at all.

Determination of core cross-section

Once you have decided on the material, you can select the diameter of the cable cores. This is done depending on the planned load on the line according to the table.

Calculation of electrical wiring - the selection of the cross-section of the cable cores is carried out according to this table

The cross-section of the core is selected according to the current or power of all consumers connected to one circuit breaker. This is where your home electrification plan, where you have outlined consumer groups, will come in handy once again. You calculate the sum of the currents or powers of all devices and select the desired cross-section of the cores according to the table.

How to use the table? If you decide to lay copper wires, the input voltage is 220 V, then the left part, the corresponding column, is suitable for internal wiring. The found power of all consumers connected to the group will be compared (it is easier to find and calculate). In the part where we are talking about copper wires laid in trays, voids, channels, in the “220 V” column, find the nearest higher value. Follow this line to the right to the column “Section, sq. mm". The number indicated here will be the required core size. From conductors of this diameter it will be necessary to make electrical wiring from the machine to sockets or switches.

In order not to get confused when counting and laying, designate wires of the same diameter on the plan with a certain color (write it down so as not to forget what color you designated what). After the diameter has been determined for all consumer groups, the length of the required cables for each size is calculated, and a margin of 20-25% is added to the found figures. You have calculated the wiring for your home.

Shell type selection

There are certain requirements for the type of sheath only when laying electrical wiring in wooden houses: it is recommended to use triple (NYM) or double () cable insulation. In houses of less flammable materials, any insulation can be used. The main thing is that it is intact, without cracks, sagging or other damage. If you want to play it safe, you can use conductors with enhanced protection. This makes sense in rooms with high humidity (kitchen, bathroom, swimming pool, bathhouse, etc.).

Selection of sockets and switches

For some powerful devices, sockets are selected according to the maximum (starting) current. For other low-power consumers they are standard. You need to know that they exist:

• External - when the body sticks out from the wall. They are easier to install: a backing is attached to the wall, and a socket is attached to it on top. But few people use such models now, even at their dachas. The reason is aesthetic: not the most attractive sight.
• Internal. A recess is made in the wall for the electrical part, and an installation box is installed and walled up in it. The electrical part of the socket or switch is inserted inside this box.

It is indoor electrical sockets and switches that are most often used today. They are decorated in different styles and painted in different colors. They are selected mainly to match the finish, and if this is not possible, they are installed in white.

Read how to connect pass-through switches (turn on/off lights from two or more places).

DIY wiring

Modern construction trends provide for hidden wiring. It can be laid in specially made grooves in the walls - grooves. After laying and securing the cables, they are covered with putty, comparing them with the surface of the rest of the wall. If the erected walls will then be lined with sheet materials - plasterboard, gypsum plasterboard, etc., then grooves are not needed. The cables are laid in the gap between the wall and the finish, but in this case - only in corrugated sleeves. The shell with laid cables is attached with clamps to the structural elements.

When installing, you need to remember that the internal electrical wiring of a private house is done according to all the rules and recommendations. This is the only way to guarantee safety. The basic rules are:

• laying wiring only vertically and horizontally, no rounded corners or beveled routes;
• all connections must be made in ;
• horizontal transitions must be at a height of at least 2.5 meters, from which the cable runs down to the socket or switch.

A detailed route plan, similar to the one in the photo above, must be saved. It will come in handy during repairs or wiring upgrades. You will need to check with him if somewhere nearby you need to ditch or make a hole or hammer a nail. The main task is not to get caught in the cable.

A large percentage of electrical wiring problems come from poor wire connections. They can be done in several ways:

Still, the most reliable connection methods are welding and soldering. If it is possible to make the connection like this, you can assume that you will not have problems. At least with connections.

Installing electrical wiring in a house with your own hands requires careful fulfillment of all requirements. This is a guarantee of your privacy and the safety of your private property.

After the wires from the machine to the connection point of the socket or switch are laid, they are checked for integrity with a tester - the wires are connected to each other, checking the integrity of the conductors, and each individually to the ground - checking that the insulation is not damaged anywhere. If the cable is not damaged, proceed with the installation of the socket or switch. Once connected, everything is checked again with a tester. Then they can be started on the appropriate machine. Moreover, it is advisable to sign the machine immediately: it will be easier to navigate.

After finishing the electrical wiring throughout the house and checking everything yourself, they call electrical laboratory specialists. They check the condition of the conductors and insulation, measure grounding and zero, and based on the results they give you a test report (protocol). Without it you will not be given permission to put into operation.