- another extremely useful thing in the household of a craftsman who works with metal. It is needed for many things: from soldering work to welding with preheating of workpieces or places of future welds.

Since the functions of gas heaters are the widest, their types are numerous and varied. Models for jewelry work resemble graceful pens. And devices for heating bitumen for roofing work are more like powerful spotlights. All of them are presented on the market: as they say, for every taste and budget.

The purchased model has one advantage - it has a safety certificate. If, according to the conditions of your work, the presence of such a certificate is mandatory, then there is nothing to think about: you need to buy a gas burner. But if you work independently, and official paper doesn’t make you hot or cold, then a DIY gas burner is an excellent solution in all respects.

Why and why? Firstly, this thing is not cheap. Secondly, the design is not too complicated, you will be able to do it, we promise. Before you make a gas burner with your own hands, you need to take into account some special information.

How welding works with a gas torch occur.

Features of gas burners:

• The first thing is the material from which the nozzle should be made. Only refractory metal, because your device must produce really high temperatures - up to 1000 ° C, so the nozzle must be stable at such temperatures.
• We don’t skimp on the crane, because your safety will depend on its quality. If a leak suddenly starts, the gas supply is instantly shut off using a tap. The faucet must be of high quality; it must not leak.
• Another element of the device, the quality of which must be of the highest quality, is the connection point to a gas cylinder with or without a reducer; if the cylinder is small, then it has a valve. We remember that the overwhelming majority of gas-related accidents occur precisely because of a defective shut-off device.
• Propane is most often used - this is for your information.
• At its core, a gas burner is an evaporative type nozzle.
• A gas torch for do-it-yourself soldering is, in principle, no different from a device for hardening metal parts, so it can be made for a wide variety of applications.

How does a gas burner work?

The mechanism of action of the injection type device:

1. Gas is supplied through a hose as a result of the pressure that is generated during the evaporation of liquefied gas inside the cylinder. This pressure is sufficient to ensure that the incoming gas is sufficient to create and maintain an even, constant flame. Not all cylinders have a reducer; in this case, the gas flow can be regulated by a working tap.
2. The shut-off valve is by no means functional, it has a completely different function, it is attached to the cylinder valve with the only task - to open or close the gas supply.
3. A gas stream is supplied to the nozzle through the gas supply tube. This tube goes into a nipple, which shapes the direction of the flame. This nipple, together with the gas supply tube, is located in a special liner, the function of which is to mix gas with air.
4. The insert, together with the nipple and the gas supply tube, is adjusted with a screw. It is best to make the device collapsible, since the nipple must be cleaned without fail.
5. After formation in the liner, the mixture of gas and air is supplied to a special nozzle of the nozzle, into which an additional portion of oxygen is supplied from atmospheric air. The nozzle needs ventilation holes; they will make the flame more even and stable.

Homemade burner options

We already know that one of the main elements of the device is the valve. Powerful, large-sized models must be equipped with industrial-type valves. These valves can be purchased, or you can use old ones while maintaining integrity and providing that there is no gas leakage.

With such dimensions, a standard 50-liter gas cylinder equipped with an angle valve and reducer is used.

Burner with valve VK-74

Cylinder and gas burner.

The main thing to remember is that this valve should only be used to regulate the flame. You only need to stop the flow of gas at the cylinder itself. VK-74 is a valve for an oxygen cylinder, to which a handle with a connected hose from the cylinder is attached. A cap with a hole for the jet is also screwed onto the valve; here you can use an element from a blowtorch or gas stove. A nozzle made of refractory steel on two wires is welded to the cap.

In order for air to enter the combustion zone, the distance between the cap and the nozzle must be at least 15 mm. The position of the nozzle is determined by wire holders so that the burner flame passes exactly in the center. How to light a flame: slowly open the valve by holding a lit match to the nozzle. The flame is regulated by a valve.

Burner converted from acetylene gas cutter

A homemade one is perfectly made from an acetylene cutter whose oxygen supply valve has failed. In this case, the mixing chamber needs to be reworked: everything needs to be removed from it to make it lighter, this also applies to the tap and oxygen barrel. The remaining hole needs to be soldered.

The reducer hose from the cylinder must be connected to the fitting. For ease of operation, the tip is installed at an angle of 45° using a union nut on the mixing chamber. Weld the nozzle to the flange, which is then screwed onto the thread of the tip. We make the nozzle in the same way as in the first version with the VK-74 valve.

Gas mini burner

Drawing of a gas burner.

This is called “minor” work - for example, jewelry. In this mode, it is most convenient to use a special mini-device. This one is made very simply from scrap materials. The main element in it is a needle for inflating balls. You need to work with this needle: first make a hole in the form of a cut approximately in the middle or a little further. Some needles already have such holes, then we are happy and continue to work.

We take another needle, this time from a syringe, bend it at an angle of 45°. The end of the needle should be sharpened so that its sharp end turns into a right angle cut, and the needle becomes like a narrow metal tube. We insert the syringe needle into the ball needle so that both ends come out of the larger needle. In this position, the needles need to be soldered to each other. After this, we connect droppers with clamps to regulate them to the base of the needles.

The clamps should be located as close as possible to the needles and fastened to each other - they will serve as valves, that is, regulate the supply of gas and atmospheric air. After connecting the gas source it will be ready for work. With all its simplicity and compactness, you can achieve temperatures of up to 1000° on it. And don’t forget safety precautions, you need to work very carefully with this baby.

So, building a gas burner with your own hands is a) real; b) profitable; c) useful. To do this, it is enough to decide what kind of work you are planning to determine the type and dimensions. The design of a gas burner is simple from a physical point of view; the main thing is to follow our advice regarding the main elements. We wish you quick solutions, high-quality valves and an even flame.

Master Kudelya © 2013 Copying of site materials is permitted only with indication of the author and a direct link to the source site

Gorelking

or the saga of the burners. Part 1

Recently, our vocabulary has been enriched with new terms from various areas of public life (petting, pechting, etc.) In order to keep up with fashion and the progressive public, I called my opus"Gorelking or the saga of burners (homemade)" .
I have long had a warm (sometimes even hot) relationship with burners. Therefore, I share information with a special feeling.
It should be noted right away that we are talking about gas and propane burners. And precisely injection ones, because the oxidizer (air) is sucked into them by itself with the help of a jet of flammable gas (not to be confused with explosive gas) directed at the burner exit. Sometimes, however, gravity air flow is not enough, and to increase the combustion temperature of the mixture, air is pumped by a blower. But in any case, the air is not used from a cylinder, but simply atmospheric. Therefore, only one gas tube is suitable for this type of burner, namely from a propane cylinder.Because in order to choose the right burner for your purposes,It’s not enough to just show a photo and write something, I had to record videos. They give a more clear picture of the operation of these devices.

Mini burner

This torch was originally created for soldering filigree with very small parts, so the main emphasis is on reducing the diameter of the flame. At that time, when this burner was made, small burners with a gas canister in the form of a burner handle were not yet sold. Therefore, the universal medium burner (described below) was taken as a basis and all dimensions were reduced proportionally.

Soldering small parts. Sometimes there are not enough hands to apply solder and hold filigree elements :) A special feature of this torch is the use of a divider. This achieves flame stability over the entire pressure range (within reason, of course), namely from 0.2 to 3 kg/cm2. The amount of air is not adjustable. It is selected by the diameter of the suction holes. If, however, you want to regulate the enrichment of the mixture, place a piece of silicone tube inside the knurled ring and, by rotating the ring, you can adjust it. The selected diameter of the nozzle hole is about 0.12 mm.

One of the methods for manufacturing an injector is shown. The capillary is soldered to a screw screwed into the tube. The screw is on the FUM. We maintain alignment. You can do it without a capillary by drilling a brass M3 screw on a machine.
But what really needs to be adjusted here is the position of the tube with the nozzle. After igniting the burner, move the tube back and forth and, having found the optimal position, secure it with a screw.

This torch is the most versatile torch for brazing small and medium-sized jewelry. (Of course, if you don’t need both hands to be free :) But adjustments can be made with the same hand that holds the burner.
It also contains a divider and therefore will never go out on its own at any normal propane pressure.
Adjust the flame with the same hand. A silicone tube protects the place where it is hung on a hook. Ebonite handle. When properly configured, the burner produces a narrow, long flame.

A heat-insulating sleeve is made around the burner head. Its use allows you to warm up the tip, which can slightly increase the flame temperature. It is made of asbestos fiber with the addition of kaolin and liquid glass.
The soldered object must be in the reduction zone of the flame. You can check this by placing a piece of copper wire into the flame. In the reduction zone, the metal surface becomes shiny.

The nozzle on this burner is made in the same way as on the previous one. The selected nozzle hole diameter is 0.16 mm.
The amount of air can also be adjusted by placing a piece of silicone tube of the appropriate diameter inside the ring. But with the dimensions in my drawing, the mixture is already fairly balanced.

Medium straight burner

As you can see, I didn’t really worry about the names of the burners, because the headings needed to be different. You have to call them something.
The next burner differs from the previous ones in the geometry of the arrangement of its component parts, but the operating principles are the same.

This burner has a softer flame, so it is better to use it for heating something (annealing wire, patination) or where the previous one cannot reach. It has the same divider as the previous burners. And the air leak is made in a peculiar way.

There is no drawing for this burner, because the main parameters are the same as the previous burner. The head and divider, as well as the diameter of the air duct, are the same. And, most importantly, the nozzle diameter is the same.

Large hand torch

This torch is similar to previous hand torches. All parameters are the same, only the power is increased. This torch can be used to solder not only filigree, but also copper tubes of refrigerators.

The only standard component in this burner is the gas valve. But not a passing pass, as in previous cases, but a corner pass. Everything is attached to it. The selected diameter of the nozzle hole is 0.23 mm.

Appendix 1

Today I received another letter asking me to explain where to get capillaries and, in general, how to make an injector. It was even proposed to use electrical erosion. I had no idea that this could cause problems.
So, I do it this way. First of all, I got used to using M3 screws for the injectors (a regular screw with a 3 mm metric thread).
So, take your box of M3 screws, dump it out and distribute it in an even layer. Then take a magnet and pull out all the attached screws. As a result, you will be left with screws that do not tighten. The fact that they look the same as the others should not fool you. These are plated brass screws. Numbered 1 in the photo.
If there are no M3 brass ones, nothing prevents you from doing this with M4.

Next, you have five paths:
- Immediately drill a hole with the required drill diameter. But this is for fairly large holes and with a precision drill.
- drill on both sides of the screw with a large drill, but not all the way. Then pierce this jumper with a needle or drill it with a small drill.
- drill with a large drill, and then fill the hole with PIC solder, and then work with it, which is much easier.
- drill with a large drill, and then use POS solder to solder a stainless steel wire of the appropriate diameter coaxially into the screw. And then pull out the wire.
And finally, you can solder a capillary of the appropriate diameter into the drilled hole using low-melting solder.
So, capillaries, that is, thin tubes.
Under the number 2 are capillaries from instrumentation instrument recorders. It’s unlikely that this advice will make you feel any better.
But number 3 is the most realistic option. When the doctor gives you an injection, don’t groan, don’t feel sorry for yourself, but gather your willpower and ask the doctor to give you the needle as a souvenir. He will give it back, he doesn’t mind. Thus, over the course of your sick life and that of your loved ones, you will collect an extensive collection of capillaries. And if you are lucky enough to give injections with imported syringes, the range will become much richer. They also have very thin needles, for example for vaccinations.
Don’t forget to also collect a collection of steel elastic wires for cleaning capillaries - number 4.
Number 5 - my new gas stove came with a whole set of nozzles with different hole diameters.
And finally, 6-end clamps for mounting multi-core electrical wires. A whole bunch of different diameters.

Addendum 2

Sometimes workers complain that the burner is not working or is not working properly. Only working designs are posted here, no theoretical ones. This means that they did not notice or did not understand the principle of operation of the burners. Now I’ll try to explain using a mini-burner as an example. To do this, I will give a simplified diagram of this particular design.

1. Make sure that the incoming gas pressure is within the acceptable range of 0.2-4 kg/cm2. And the most working range is from 0.5 to 2.5 kg/cm2. And the diameter of the nozzle hole is 0.12 +/-0.02 mm.
2. The air intake holes are not closed.
3. In the picture. The diameter of the tube with the supplied gas-air mixture is 3.5 mm. And the central hole in the divider has a diameter of 3 mm. That is, 0.5 mm less. Therefore, part of the flow of the gas-air mixture diverges to the sides into small holes. The flow rate through these holes is less than the main flow. These small holes are precisely designed to ignite the main flow. And due to the low speed of the gas-air mixture, they burn stably and do not allow the flame of the main flow to be blown away. This is true for all burners of the type on this page with flame spreaders.
4. Based on the above, check whether there is still a 2mm gap between both parts of the burner head. If manufactured correctly according to the drawings, this gap will exist. Otherwise, you will observe only the central torch, without the side lights, which is easily blown away when the pressure of the gas entering the nozzle increases.

On the left is a non-working burner. On the right is how it should be.
5. And a few words about the position of the nozzle. The cut of the capillary from which the gas comes out must be positioned while the burner is running in the area opposite the air intake holes, or before these holes. And, of course, the tube with the capillary should not block the air holes.

Alcohol burners are useful for those who like fishing, hunting, and hiking. In one of the previous materials we talked about using a vessel from an asterisk. Today we'll look at a way to create a larger burner using an aluminum can. Many may wonder why make an alcohol burner if dry fuel is sold in stores. Dry fuel can also be used to brew coffee or prepare hot tea while camping, but practice shows that an alcohol burner does this much better and more efficiently.

Let's watch a video of an alcohol burner from the author of the homemade product:

What do we need to make a homemade alcohol burner?
- Aluminum can for soda, beer or other drinks;
- Round nose pliers;
- Four matchboxes;
- Stationery knife;
- Medical alcohol;
- Felt pen or marker
- And scissors.

First of all, we must cut off the top of the jar. To do this, we need to make a cut with a stationery knife and tear off the unnecessary part with pliers.

Next, we put two matchboxes, a stationery knife on them with the blade towards the jar and cut off the lower part.

The same procedure will be done with the top of our aluminum jar, but this time with four boxes.

We apply two matchboxes to the cut off upper part, but this time we do not cut it, but outline it with a felt-tip pen or marker.

On the resulting line we place marks or dots every centimeter and make cuts with scissors so that they start from the line to the very bottom of the piece of the can.

Our alcohol burner is almost ready, and all we have to do is assemble its component parts into one whole. To do this, lightly fold the bottom of the top piece of the jar so that it fits easily into the second.

All that remains is to pour medical alcohol into our burner and test it.

Attention!!! Medical alcohol, like the burner itself, is flammable. When using it, be sure to follow the fire handling and safety rules. Keep the burner away from flammable materials and mixtures. Do not add too much alcohol as this may cause the burner to explode and cause serious injury.

The burner is working, which means that another homemade product was made successfully. This way we can boil approximately 250 ml of water in just 2 minutes using approximately 15 ml of alcohol.

What is a gas burner? Many people are interested in the exact answer to this question. In short, this is a homemade propane device that has a huge number of advantages over its analogues. In this article we will try to understand exactly everything related to a homemade gas burner, and also answer the question “How to make a gas burner with your own hands?”

Firstly, I would like to note Key Features of this design. These include:

• extremely easy to use;
• no unpleasant or harmful odors, traces of soot, etc.;
• compactness, allowing the gas burner to be used almost anywhere.

The device of a homemade gas burner includes:

• metal case;
• gearbox;
• nozzle;
• fuel supply regulator;
• head;
• a unit for securing a gas cylinder.

The metal case includes a special glass, with the help of which the mechanism eliminates the possibility of blowing out the flame. This also includes a metal or other handle that does not exceed 100 centimeters. A wooden holder and a gas hose are installed on top of the handle. Using a reducer and a tube with a valve, the gas supply level and its length are adjusted accordingly. The nozzle is used to ignite the fuel, in this case the latter is propane.

Type of fuel the burner runs on

As mentioned earlier, a gas burner is also called a propane burner. From this it is easy to conclude that, as a rule, propane or a mixture of propane and butane is used as fuel.

With this fuel a special cylinder is filled, which is attached to the burner.

Do-it-yourself gas burner production

As you can understand from the list of elements of the entire design of the device, it is extremely simple and does not have any complex parts that require a lot of time.

In order to make the unit with your own hands, it will take a little time and effort. And if you correctly study the material presented in this article, as well as approach the process with all seriousness and accuracy (since the work is carried out with flammable substances), then it will definitely be completed.

As practice and many living examples show, on average, a person who has never created homemade gas burners, 40-45 minutes after reading the instructions, could already boast of a homemade burner.

How to make a gas burner with your own hands

Here we come to the most interesting process. To make a burner. Below we will describe in detail the entire process of creating this unit, taking into account all the nuances and tips.

So, you should start with the simplest, but no less interesting. From the manufacture of the burner handle. In principle, any material can be used. By the way, it would be more reasonable to simply use a ready-made handle from some old and unnecessary soldering iron. The supply tube is made exclusively of steel.

Do not forget to pay great attention to the dimensions of all parts. For example, the diameter of the burner supply tube should not exceed one centimeter, and its thickness should fluctuate around 2 - 2.5 mm. This tube is inserted into the handle and fixed with glue or other quality material suitable for the purpose.

Frame

The burner body, oddly enough, is also made of steel. It is best to use a brass rod, the width of which should be approximately 2 centimeters. The divider can also be made from it.

Next, several holes are made in order to create circulation of oxygen in the unit. After all, as anyone knows: fire cannot exist without oxygen. The total number of such holes should be four: each with a diameter of about 1 millimeter. They are made in the very core of the burner divider.

The next step is to forcefully press the divider, which was worked with a little earlier, into the body of the gas device. The inner flange must be installed with some clearance of about half a centimeter. With the help of this gap in the future, a huge flow of gas approaching the igniter will be slowed down.

Nozzle

As mentioned earlier, the nozzle is used to supply fuel, namely propane, from its cylinder to the outside. To make it you should use special metal rod. Here you will need a 2mm drill to make a blind hole in the nozzle. For the jumper we will need a 4mm drill. The holes made are caulked with a hammer, and then sharpened using everyone’s favorite sandpaper.

After this, a hose from the gearbox is mounted on the end of the tube, which must be made of special rubber and fabric material. Fastening occurs with a regular clamp using a standard screwdriver.

After the mechanism, in your opinion, is correctly secured, you need to set optimal pressure in the cylinder and supply gas from it. The air from the hose should then be completely displaced. The length of the fire, with the correct location and operation of all parts, should be about 40-50 mm.

In general, as mentioned earlier, a homemade gas burner is a rather unique tool that will come to the aid of any owner in any unpleasant everyday situations. And the maximum ease of its manufacture can only further attract all priorities to itself.

Furnaces and boilers running on waste oil have long taken their rightful place among heating appliances. Exhaust is a cheap and sometimes free type of fuel; it is often used for this purpose in car repair shops and garages. Many craftsmen, when choosing a design, ask the question: is it possible to convert a gasoline blowtorch into a burner for mining?

The principle of operation of a conventional blowtorch is to ignite gasoline vapors, which are pushed out under the action of compressed air. This effect is achieved by forcing air into the burner fuel tank.

What happens if you pour used oil into a blowtorch?

Oil itself, even under pressure, does not evaporate well - it needs to be heated. Due to poor atomization, the flame will be uneven and it will be difficult to ignite the burner. The oil burns with the formation of a large amount of soot and soot, so the jet will quickly coke, its cross-section will decrease, and the lamp will fail. Increasing the cross-section of the nozzle will also not give the expected effect - the oil will be sprayed in large drops, which will not allow obtaining a uniform flame of the torch.

In addition, used oil often contains impurities: diesel fuel, gasoline, antifreeze and even water, which can lead to flashes inside the lamp. To use waste as fuel for a blowtorch, you will have to install a filtration system, which will further complicate the task.

Considering all the difficulties, using a gasoline blowtorch as a burner during mining is difficult and unsafe. Therefore, it is necessary to modify or completely change its design.

How to make a burner for mining yourself

For successful combustion of oil, you must either preheat it to the evaporation temperature - approximately 300 degrees Celsius, or finely spray and enrich the oil vapor with air. You can heat the oil to such temperatures using powerful heating elements, but this will increase energy costs.
An oil aerosol can be created by applying a stream of compressed air through a layer of oil. This effect is realized in the Babington burner - a device, an analogue of which you can assemble with your own hands from available components.

Babington burner - an alternative to a blowtorch

The Babington burner was originally patented to run on diesel fuel. Later, having made minor changes to the design, the craftsmen changed the design with their own hands and adapted the burner for burning waste machine and food oils. The degree of oil contamination does not matter much, since the fuel channels of the unit are free of bottlenecks prone to blockages.

Unlike a blowtorch, where the fuel-air mixture is sprayed under pressure through nozzles, in a Babington burner oil is pumped from a reservoir using a low-power pump and flows in a thin film along an inclined or spherical surface, and the oil-air mixture is formed by blowing a thin jet of compressed air air through this film.

The spraying effect is clearly presented in the video:

The Babington burner consists of several functional blocks:
• Fuel - tank, pump and pipes for supplying fuel.
• Air, it consists of a compressor and an air tube.
• A hemisphere with a small diameter hole where the air stream mixes with oil.
• A nozzle that directs the flame in the desired direction.

The standard design can be modified with your own hands, increasing its efficiency. To do this, the fuel tank is equipped with a heater that heats the oil before the burner starts operating, which makes it possible to increase its fluidity. In addition, a fuel channel made of a metal tube can be wound around the nozzle - this way the oil will heat up while the burner is operating.

The burner nozzle is directed into the boiler, where the fuel chamber and water jacket are heated. You can also use the device to melt and heat metals.

Advantages of a DIY Babington burner:

• a wide selection of fuel - used machine oils, lubricants of any viscosity, diesel fuel, fuel oil, any vegetable oils, including food production waste;
• the presence of impurities in the fuel;
• simplicity of design - you can do it yourself.

Flaws:

• difficulty setting up the burner, especially often when changing the type of fuel;
• smell and dirt - the burner cannot be installed in residential premises, a boiler room is required;
• The use of the burner involves an open flame, so fire safety precautions must be observed.

There must be a powder or salt chemical fire extinguisher in the boiler room!

DIY Babington burner

You can assemble the burner yourself from simple components; for this you will need:

• • A hollow ball or hemisphere with such a wall thickness that you can drill a hole with a diameter of no more than 0.3 mm. You can use any metal objects of a similar configuration, for example, a spherical brass door handle, nuts with plugs. The main condition is the possibility of reliable fastening of the air duct.

• Metal tube for supplying compressed air from the compressor, diameter - 10-15 mm.
• A compressor, for example, from a refrigerator, with an operating pressure of 2 atm, a maximum pressure of 4 atm.
• Fuel tank with a built-in heating element of 0.5-1 kW made of non-corrosion metal.
• Fuel sump and pipe to drain excess oil back into the tank.
• Copper tube, diameter - 10 mm, wall thickness - 1-1.5 mm for the fuel channel.
• Oil pump from a car or motorcycle with an electric motor to drive the pump. It is advisable to equip the pump with a filter with a large mesh at the inlet.
• The nozzle is a 200-400 mm long nozzle with an external thread of 2 inches.
• Crosspiece for two-inch metal pipe with internal threads.
• A 1" threaded drain and a 2/1" adapter to drain excess fuel into the sump.
• Adapters and fittings for connecting the fuel line, air duct and nozzle.

Preparing burner components for assembly

1. 1. The main and most important task is to make a hole of a given diameter in a spherical nozzle. The power of the burner depends on its size. For example, a boiler with a thermal power of 10-15 kW requires a burning torch obtained by operating a burner with one hole with a diameter of 0.2-0.25 mm. To obtain more power, there is no need to expand the hole - this will lead to larger droplets. It is better to make 2-4 holes with a diameter of 0.1-0.3 mm with a distance between them of 8-10 mm, otherwise the torches will be mutually extinguished. Fuel consumption can be calculated as follows: through one hole of 0.25 mm, 2 liters of waste are sprayed per hour.

Video about how you can make small diameter holes in a metal hemisphere:

1. 1. The tank is made of corrosion-resistant metal. A heating element is built into it with a thermostat set to turn off the heating element at a temperature of 70 degrees Celsius.
   2. It is necessary to make a fuel sump from the same material, equipped with a pipe with an overflow. Through this pipe, oil from the sump will flow back into the tank. To drain dirt from the sump, you can provide a plug in its bottom.

• Assemble the burner body: connect the nozzle from the squeegee to the 2-inch cross in the front part, then adapters: from the top for oil supply, from the back side for air. From below, a 2/1-inch adapter and a squeegee are connected to the crosspiece, through which excess oil will drain into the sump. The adapters are made of plugs with drilled holes into which the fuel and air channel tubes are inserted.

The housing can also be made from a tee, in which the air duct is inserted into the upper part, having previously drilled a hole of the required diameter.

• The fuel path is made of a copper tube, one end of which is wound around the nozzle three times, and then led through a plug adapter into the housing at the top. The fuel pipe is connected to the pump, a coarse strainer is installed and the other end of the pipe is inserted into the tank. The fuel path can be equipped with a valve. The pump is connected to an electric motor operating from a 220 V network.

• An air duct made of a metal tube is attached at one end to a hemisphere with a hole, having previously installed a plug adapter at the required distance. The hemisphere should be positioned so that the oil from the fuel tube evenly flows onto the rounded part of the nozzle, and then into the lower part of the housing and into the sump. The other part of the air duct is connected to a compressor, which is also connected to a 220 V network.
• Since the installation will have as many as three consumers of electricity, which are not turned on simultaneously, it is advisable to equip the burner with a control panel: install a separate toggle switch or button to turn on the heating element and a separate toggle switch to turn on the compressor and pump. If desired, you can equip the remote control with a light signaling system made of diode lamps.
• You can equip the burner with a controller that automatically turns on the units in accordance with the selected mode. Electric ignition is realized using spark plugs, and to extinguish the burner it is enough to turn off the oil supply.

Video - burner assembly diagram:

Preparing fuel for the burner

Almost any waste oil can be used in a Babington burner. Automotive waste with a large number of foreign inclusions is filtered before being poured into the tank through a mesh and mixed with cleaner oil. Oils with a small amount of impurities can be poured without preparation.

When using edible vegetable oils, such as deep frying, it is recommended to let it sit for several hours and carefully drain off the residue. These oils are sufficiently fluid at normal temperatures, so they can be heated in the tank only when the burner is started. When using fuel oil and other thick materials, they must be heated to a temperature of 70 to 90 degrees, otherwise the pump will work with overload.

Security measures

A burner using oils and other GSPs can be dangerous if installed and operated incorrectly. To avoid a fire, a number of measures must be observed:
• floors and walls made of flammable materials are sheathed with metal or asbestos sheets;
• fuel reserves are stored at a safe distance;
• oil leaks must be removed in a timely manner;
• electrical elements of the installation must be carefully insulated to avoid sparking in the oil spray area;
• The burner must be placed out of reach of air currents and drafts.

A burner with an open nozzle must not be left running unattended!

The Babington burner, unlike a blowtorch converted to work in mining, is a reliable and durable unit that does not require complex maintenance. It is enough to periodically clean the fuel system, tank and sump, blow out the air duct in idle mode, and also monitor the serviceability of the compressor and oil pump. A working burner is a reliable and economical unit with a long service life.